Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts

Friday, November 22, 2019

Transmission Service E90 BMW 330i 2006

Transmission Service
BMW 330i 2006 E90 233K miles

In this post I will be talking about the service I did to the Transmission Mechatronics of my BMW 330i 2006 E90.  I will give as much detail as I can and I will show as many pictures as I can.  As many details as I can.  This job is very time consuming, but not impossible to do at your house.

Watch the video below for tools and tips.  I write about my personal experience in this blog.

How it all started:
It all started about 2 months ago, when my wife drove the car off in the morning and I noticed an excessive amount of oil in the ground.  Now my car leaks oil from the Motor oil pan, I've known this for a while, and I haven't fixed it.  But I also knew that the amount of oil in the ground that day was excessive.  Later that week... I took my car to get an oil change and I asked the technician to check to see where the oil was coming and he confirmed my suspicions, the oil was actually Transmission fluid.

As a result I started learning as much as I could could about the transmission service, and this is what I learned....

What exactly is wrong with the transmission:
The Transmission fluid is coming out from around the Transmission Oil Pan(made of plastic).  The seal gasket is no longer good, and because it has little transmission fluid, the transmission started hesitating and jumping.  The transmission will give you codes if something is wrong, my car didn't give me any codes... 

First road block:
You first must know which transmission you have.  There are 2, they use different transmission fluid.  My transmission is a ZF6HP19  with Shell Fluid (same as Pentosin ATF1).  I believe most cars use this.
My transmission had a stamp number, pictured here, where you can see the 6HP19 number, to verify that is what you have.

Automatic Transmission applications:
Model                     Transmission                Manufacturer ID
328i, 328xi              6A6L45R (6 speed)     GM GM6 (metal transmission cover)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
325i, 325xi, 330i     6A6HP19Z (6 speed)    ZF 6HP19 (Plastic transmission cover)
330xi, 335i, 335xi 

If you are not sure which one you have, the transmission will have a stamp on the transmission, near the Fill Plug.  it will have the manufacturer stamp (GM6 or 6HP19)  my transmission above says 6HP19, in picture below.
This stamp is on the side of the fill plug, on top of the cable that is used to change the gear
If your car is Manual these are the specs below...

Manual transmission application
Model                       Transmission                 Manufacturer ID
325i, 328i                 GS6-17BG                   Getrag type 1
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
325i, 328xi, 330xi     GS6X-37BZ                ZF Type H
330i                            GS6-37BZ
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
335i, 335xi                GS6-53DZ                   ZF type G
                                   GS6X-53DZ


Automatic Transmission Fluids:
Type                     BMW Part no.             Manufacturer part no.
6A6L45R             83 22 0 397 114           Dexron VI
GA6HP19Z          83 22 0 142 516           Shell M-1375.4


Pentosin ATF1 is a direct replacement to Shell M-1375.4

Manual transmission fluids
Transmission               Year range               Fluid Type
Getrag GS6-17BG       All                            MTF-LT-3
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ZF GS6-37BZ              To 03/2007              MTF-LT2
                                      From 03/2007         MTF-LT3
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ZF GS6-53BZ              To 03/2007              MTF-LT2
                                      From 03/2007         MTF-LT3

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------         
MTF-LT2 (Lifetime fluid) BMW part no. 83 22 0 309 031
MTF-LT3 (Lifetime fluid) BMW part no. 83 22 7 533 818


Process:
Lift the car off the ground, the car "must be level", to fill the trans fluid, if only the front wheels are off the ground this will not work.  Lift the front and the back.

Remove the cover under the car.  The Engine oil plastic shroud and the plastic transmission should under the car.

You will need an 8MM Allen wrench and a hammer to hit it a few times, to loosen the Fill plug.  YES I said a hammer to hit it.  The drain plug will be very tight and it will need a little persuasion to loosen, I also added penetrating oil.  Put the Allen wrench on the fill plug and hit it with a hammer a few times, to loosen.  DON'T STRIP THE FILL PLUG, take your time.  I held the Allen wrench tight on the Fill plug and hit it as hard as I could (righty tighty, lefty loosy) I hit the end of the Allen wrench, I also used an extension on the Allen wrench, but it didn't do anything.  What worked was hard taps on the wrench, I hit it about about 40 times.  before it got loose.  Again Don't strip the Fill plug, use a new Allen and TAKE YOUR TIME. 
Before you do anything make sure you can loosen the fill plug, if you CAN'T loosen this plug FIRST, don't do anything else, because you won't be able to fill the transmission fluid.  I am not talking about the Drain plug(PLASTIC), I am talking about the Fill plug(METAL).  The fill plug is made of metal.
Fill plug removed
Get a container for the drained trans fluid, and put it under the car by the Drain plug.  The drain plug is plastic and it's on the bottom of the transmission pan, the transmission pan is also plastic.  I heard that some may be metal, your experience may be different.

Undo the transmission drain plug with a 10MM Allen wrench, and let the transmission fluid drain, note that under normal circumstances, 7 liters of transmission fluid should be inside and only about 5 or 6 will drain.  The rest of the fluid will stay inside the transmission, this is normal.

Drain Plug removed

SIDE NOTE: the total drained fluid in my car was about 4 liters, this was because the fluid had been leaking on my car.  You may have 5 to 6 liters drain.  The total fluid capacity is 7 liters.

After the old transmission fluid is drained, put the plug back in and undo all of the screws around the transmission pan, and remove.  It will expose the mecatronics.  You will need to remove a metal peace connected to the exhaust pipes to get access to all the screws.

FYI: The transmission Pan also houses the Filter, it's integrated into the pan.

To remove the mecatronics system you will need to remove these screws. 10 in total.  The picture below also shows the order to tighten them when you put them back.  This is in the video I will provide below, keep reading...
Tighten these screws to 10 Newton meters.

When you take the mecatronics out it will look like this:

FYI, Mecatronics is heavy, use a jack after you remove all the screws to make it easier for you to handle.  Picture above.   I left 2 screws on it and then put the jack under it.  Then removed the last 2 screws to lower it.

TIP:  The transmission Cable moves a small plastic make sure you don't brake it taking out the mecatronics and or putting it back on.  In the Video they talk about this too...
Plastic on the right side of this picture
the different color motor looking things are actually solenoid motors.  Sometimes these can fail, the car will give you a code for each one, so you know which to replace.  

Which parts need to be serviced: all of these :)

Description and Cause of problems:
Round one is connector Mechatronics "Electronic connector": it has O-rings that can leak oil out

The rectangular one: it tends to get squeezed and it it doesn't send trans fluid to transmission properly.

4 small tubes.  They are the ones that need to be replaced when you are slowing down to almost a stop and your car suddenly surges forward. 

All are made of plastic, and you are suppose to replace them every 80K miles.  They are NOT life time parts.  If you are over 100K or 200K in your car, you should replace them, before your transmission completely fails.  My car has 230K miles and it's the first time I've replaced them.  Because I didn't know... If you do this yourself it's not that expensive, if you take it to a shop, be prepared to pay $500 to $600 dollars for service.  The transmission fluid alone is over $100 dollars...

All can be found independently, but if you buy a kit it's much easier.  KIT: oil pan, screws, and parts.  ZF (the company) makes a kit.  FCPEuro.com, has a kit, it's MUCH easier to just buy the KIT.  Because I knew exactly what I needed, I got the kit from Amazon and it was cheaper than FTC Euro.  But it's you call...  You decide... The Amazon parts I got worked great.

Link to FCP Euro: https://www.fcpeuro.com/

The Fluid is Pentosin ATF1 (replacement for Shell Trans fluid), you can also get it at FCP Europ, or your local Advanced Auto Parts.

If you have this label ( picture below ), use Pentosin ATF 1, BMW part number: 83220142516
As a replacement for the Shell M-1375.4 transmission fluid

I got my Pentosin from Advanced auto parts, a local store and I got exactly 7 Liters: (1) 5 liter container and 2 (1 liter), I ended up using exactly 7 liters in my car.

This was the sticker on my car BMW 330i 2006 E90, a label on the transmission cover label, the new cover I got didn't have this label.

To pump fluid back into transmission:
Use a Pittsburgh pump, don't use a small hand pump.  I got under the car to pump the Trans Fluid, kept pumping and oil did not go out of the 5 litter container, I had to go to Harbor Freight to get a new pump, wasted an hour...

Don't use this one...
Use this one

Fitment:
I did have a fitment issue with the cover/oil filter.  It was not a deal breaker, but expect to spend a little extra time to line everything up.

If you look closely, the whole is off to the side, if you try to start the screw you will strip it.  

If it feels like the screw(s) is not going in smooth, STOP and push the plastic oil cover towards the side it needs to be, to FLEX it, to the correct area and then the screw should go in smooth.  TAKE YOUR TIME.  All the screws should be started by hand and if it doesn't feel like it's going in smooth STOP, figure out what is going on, loosen the screws you already put on if you have to, to get the Plastic Pan aligned properly, all screws should go in smooth.  You don't want to mess this up, TAKE YOUR TIME, AND WORK SLOWLY.
How difficult is it?
I have never done this and it took me about 3 days in total to do the entire process.  Why??? Because I didn't have the tool and when I did I wanted to take my time to make sure I didn't strip or break something accidentally.  Somebody that knows what they are doing, could probably do this in a couple of hours...

If you are only doing the oil change it's easy, if you are replacing all the serviceable parts. I took my time and started all the screws by hand, etc...   If you are handy I recommend you try this.  It's not impossible, just time consuming, because I didn't have a lift, and working under the car makes it much more difficult.

This is a messy job, have plenty of cardboard and hand towels... Again this job is messy...

Good video to watch:
ShoplifeTV:  I've watched these guys for a while, they work on a lot of BMW cars, and this time, a video about transmission came very handy.  I recommend, it.  I am not affiliated to them but I recommend their channel.  I believe they are in the Los Angeles area, recently they were going to move to a new place... Check them out for more info...

This particular video has everything you need to do the transmission fluid change.

YouTube Channel:  ShoplifeTV  consider subscribing, these guys are great!  Some of the pictures in this post come from their video.  I would like to thank them for doing a very helpful video, with out their video, I wouldn't had the courage to tackle this job.  I believe their names are Selena and Jason.  Again thank you guys!


Tools:
You will need a torque wrench, if you don't have one get one.  You will need it for this job.  I got mine at Harbor Freight, it was not expensive.  Torque Specs are in the video, for all screws...  I also recomend a torkx tool set, and allen wrench set.  They talk about the specific specs in the video.


Tip:
When you are ready to remove the mecatronics, put a clean bag on the mecatronics to stop all of the fluid from making a mess... The bag will stick to the oil and stay in place.  Otherwise the oil will leak all over you when you start to remove the 10 screws. 

bag attached to bottom of mecatronics...  Bag will stick to the metal because of the Fluid.

Oil Pan Screw tightening order:


FYI Tranmission Fluid is very flammable, so don't use a torch to loosen the Fill plug!

Side Note:  When I first start the car after filling up the Transmission fluid, I went thru all the gears PRND, I got a message of "CAN'T GO INTO PARK", but after shifting the gear about 4 times, message went away.  Then everything was okay, no problems.  Just in case it happens to you too, know to expect that.  But it's normal.

Conclusion:
It took me a while to do the service, but it was worth it.  Way cheaper to do it yourself.  If you are mechanically inclined I recommend you do it.  I was scared to do it, but I took a stab at it and everything went great. 

Good luck to you, if you decide to do this service and until next time...

Questions or comments below...


I hope this was helpful to you!

I post a ton of BMW 330I E90 related content, I have a lot of other posts, check them out, link below to the main page.
Comment below if you have any questions...

Thank again and until next time

See all my Blogs posts, link to main page: See them all!

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Sunday, July 7, 2019

Rear Window Trim Installation

Rear Window Trim Installation
BMW 330i 2006 E90 240k Miles

In today's vlog post we will cover how to replace the rear window trim seal, because chance are that by your is falling apart.  I've replaced it twice in the life time of the vehicle, I would say about 5 years ago.  I struggled a lot because I didn't know the secret to it, in today's blog we are going to cover the secret to a fast installation.  But first...

First step: Purchasing
You have to buy the correct window trim.  I got mine from BMW El Cajon, it was not very expensive considering how expensive everything is there, but that is not here nor there....  This is the part number if you are interested.
Part # 51 31 7 061 970
Price about $40 dollars.
You can ask for it at the dealer, it's called the : Rear Windows Seal

I was going to buy it online for less at ECS tuning, but the shipping was $30 dollars... Yikes... total about $60 dollars shipped....  so I opted to go to the dealer instead...

Second Step: Removal
If your window seal is as bad as mine, it's probably coming off already, or disintegrating...lol, kidding aside, the trim is just pushed in place, so all you have to do is pull on it, from an edge, and it will come off.  It is very easy to remove...

Third: Installation
It's important for you to know that the trim "should" snap i place as soon as you start to push it where it belongs.  The trim has a groove and it snaps into the window.   The installation is very easy and fast.... BUT...

If you are struggling, like I was, it's because the manufacturer put too much "silicone" around "under" the window and because it's on the way, you won't be able to push the trim into where goes.  You have to remove a bit of the "silicone".  I used a pic and I ran it along the window pressing down enough, but not enough where I could damage the paint, almost under the window glass.  I would say about 2mm under the rear window glass.  The silicone in my car was brittle, yours may still be "fresh" I say fresh because it might be malleable, or gooey.... in which case it will just messy to remove... and in this case I FEEL FOR YOU... mine however was easy to cut out in long strips... like picture below... I just ran the PIC under the window in long swoops...

HOW MUCH SILICONE TO REMOVE:  I remove this much SILICONE (about 2MM), UNDER THE GLASS, all along the area where the seal trim won't go in.  After you remove this much....trim will slide in place, VERY EASILY.... I can't stress this enough, if you are struggling to get the trim in... You have to remove this extra silicone before it will go in.... Otherwise you will be there for hours with NO Results.... This is the secret to the Installation.  If you are concerned at all about this job, take it to the dealer for the installation... the installation procedure I am telling you about here is for DIYers...

Don't be scared to do this, it's actually very easy....

Where to Start: Installation
I started inserting the trimm at one end and worked it in until I got to the first corner, then continued...If there is enough clearance under the window you won't be struggling.. so please do yourself a favour and remove a few millimeters of silicone, "under the glass" to get enough clearance to continue.  There is a lot of silicone under the glass of my car, enough where I wasn't worried by removing a few millimeters.

It only takes about 5 minutes to completely install all of the trimm, I ended up removing the silicone under the glass on the TOP section of the glass, which took me about 30 minutes, to get the clearance I needed to insert the trim.  Along both the left and the right of the window, I didn't have to remove any silicone under the glass

very easy installation...   :)

Let me know how your installation went...




I hope this was helpful to you!

I post a ton of BMW 330I E90 related content, I have a lot of other posts, check them out, link below to the main page.
Comment below if you have any questions...

Thank again and until next time

See all my Blogs posts, link to main page: See them all!


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Tuesday, June 25, 2019

Trunk Strut Replacement, E90 2006 330i BMW

Trunk Strut Replacement
E90 330i 2006 BMW 

By far the easier repair i've done to the BMW, anybody can do this!

It is very difficult to get something from the trunk with just one hand, because the other hand is busy holding up the trunk lid.... if your struts are bad, you know exactly what I am referring to.

You see after a while the struts lose their ability to hold the trunk UP.  To make your life easier... it's best to replace them.  Very easy problem to fix!

Today we will discuss how to replace them.  These are the steps...

First:
Before you do anything... order the CORRECT struts, it took me 3 tries to get the correct ones.  Make sure they are the correct length, because if they are 1/2 an inch or an inch too long..., you will "STRUGGLE" a lot... to just give up at the end...because the trunk won't close....  I accidentally picked the wrong model of car on Amazon, looking for a cheaper alternative, I accidently picked one that didn't fit my car.  Ofcourse, I didn't find out until they arrived, and they were an inch too long... later I found out they were for a Lexus trunk.... LOL... not sure how I missed that, when I ordered them.

The new replacement struts should be EXACTLY the same size in length...as the old ones, "Extended" of course.
Old struts  -- New Strut(inside bag).  They are exactly the same length.

Second: Removal of old strut
All you have to do is pry on the metal clip and pull away, then pull the strut out.  I used an angled pick, it worked really good.  It's okay if the clip is taken out completely, as they will be thrown away.  The new strut should come with new clip.

Third : Clean
Make sure you clean the Ball where the strut was seating, as you can see mine was very dirty.  If you leave it dirty like this, it will make the ball smaller from the dirt rubbing inside the strut....and then the strut will fall out of the ball... YOU DON'T want to deal with that problem... way more expensive to fix... just clean your balls please.... LOL


Fourth: Grease
Make sure your new strut comes with Grease, check inside the cavity.  If it doesn't have grease, apply a bit inside, don't go crazy, just a little will do.

Installation:
To install the strut just PUSH the strut cavity into the Ball and it will snap in place.

It's that easy!


Close and Open the trunk a few times to make sure the grease takes... The first and second time closing the trunk it will feel weird, like it's stuck, but that is okay, if you keep moving up and down the struts will fee normal... after a few tries.

Service: 
While you are in here, make sure to apply a bit of grease to all of the joints inside the trunk...  You car will thank you for it.  I used standard gear grease.





Where to buy:
I got my struts from Amazon.  Like I said earlier, do you homework, because it's very easy to get the wrong struts from Amazon.

These are the one I got....I am not affiliated to the seller, after a few tries, these were perfect.  The price was competitive too.  Less than $20 dollars shipped, for TWO.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C8UG5SK/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



I hope this was helpful to you.

I post a ton of BMW 330I E90 related content, I have a lot of other posts, check them out, link below to the main page.
Comment below if you have any questions...

Thank again and until next time

See all my Blogs posts, link to main page: See them all!



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Thursday, May 23, 2019

Cabin Air Filter Replacement E90

Cabin Air Filter Replacement
BMW 330i 2006 E90  250K miles strong...

So I am guessing that if you are reading this it's because 1 of 2 things happened, either your E90 is telling you it's time to replace the cabin air filter or you just can't stand the smell of a Dirty air filter, or in my case burnt oil smell, mixed in with dirt and old filter, lol.  If that is the case keep reading...

In this post I cover where to buy it, tools as well as instructions on how to replace the filter...

Well... let's get to it...

How to replace the Cabinet air filter 101
If you didn't know the cabin air filter and the engine air filter are two completely different things, they both do the same thing in essence, but the cabinet air filter is meant to keep the inside of the car smelling "good", I am not going to say "nice" because that is not true either, and this is how you do it. 

The Engine air filter is much smaller and it's something we will not cover in today's post.

First
-Open the hood, the latch release is inside the car just to the left of the steering wheel, it's up against the side of where your left foot to rest when driving, Pull once on the lever to release the hood.

Second
- Then go to the front of the car just to lip of the hood and feel for a hood release lever, pull up and you will completely be able to release the hood, then pull up...
The cabin filter is the big rectangular part in the middle of the picture
Inside the plastic part is the actual filter about 3 feet in length
This is the new one

The old one is very dirt and you can actually smell it inside the car,
Believe me it doesn't smell nice, 

The air filter is big...I know it's definitely over kill, but then again not really, I have other cars and they are not as big, but I also don't have to replace them as often, so it's a matter of preference I guess.

Let's continue with the process...

Third
- Next you have to remove 6 screws total to get the filter off, these are it, picture below. 

2 on the side

Again the two screws on the side

The two in the middle of the pictures.
Disregard the two zip ties, they are there for another purpose :)

Then the assembly is off.

Fourth
-Take the old filter out and install new one, it only goes one way, so you can't mess this up.

Tip:  The new filter will have 2 tabs that must go "under" the plastic lip, you will know what I mean when you get to it.  If you did it right it will be obvious...

Fifth
- Then press the filter in and it will snugg in place.  You will need to "Flex" the air filter in place, don't be afraid of it, it's okay to do so.  When I say Flex, I mean push on it and it will flex in place, to its final resting place.

Sixth
- 3 latches snap in place when you did it right.

When you did all of this you are ready to install the assembly back in place...

Re install:

- Put back plastic (cover/filter)... back in the car and install the 6 screws.  Congratulations, that was painless wasn't it... it's that easy.

EXTRA CAR-CARE
While you are replacing the filter, also take some time to clean the duct on the side of the air filter, they get filed with leaves and stuff, this is where the water drains out of the front of the car, so it's a good idea to clean it.

Pull on the plastic mesh up to remove, it's easy, then clean

Pull on the plastic mesh up to remove, it's easy, then clean
TOOLS
You will need a 5/16 socket, it will make your life a bit more easier, with an extension if you have it.
extension is very helpful, believe me!!!

5/16 ths

Where to buy Cabin Air filter:
I usually get my air filter from Amazon, but sometimes when available I just get it from Autozone.
This is the part number if you are interested:
Amazon link:
BMW 2006 330i Cabin Air filter from Amazon  $15 dollars, not very expensive...


I hope this was helpful to you.

I post a ton of BMW 330I E90 related content, I have a lot of other posts, check them out, link below to the main page.
Comment below if you have any questions...

Thank again and until next time

See all my Blogs posts, link to main page: See them all!




Monday, March 18, 2019

Shifter Knob Peeling

Shifter Knob Peeling
BMW E90, 330i, 2006 (240K miles)

I bet every single E90 by now has the Shifter Knob peeling or bubbling, unless you didn't drive it every day like I do, I bet the top of the Shift Knob is starting to show signs of its age, either looks ugly or bubbling or like my shift knob completely bald...lol, it's sad but true...

Sticker or Label, (re-wrap), or Paint?, or Replace:
I've seen on Youtube a few people that decided to re-wrap the shifter knob, but to be different, I plan to paint mine.  Black.

New replacement Cost:
New OEM $80 to $130 from
BMW Part number: 25 16 7 570 652

Amazon replacement : $20 dollars


Disassembly:
I don't recommend taking off the plastic part "white" part.  Because you will break the plastic tabs holding it to the shifter.  I painted mine in place.  By now the plastic will be very brittle and it won't survive you praying on the plastic tabs.  If you must start at the bottom and pray up.
After removing the Aluminum cover, it took me a solid 2 hours to remove all aluminum foil
To get it to this state where all the plastic is white.
How to remove from the car:
It's very easy.  The shifter Knob will come (UP) and out by pressing the shift button, then pulling up on the shift knob (like you are going to shift gears), then pulling up.  It's that easy.  I like to put mine on neutral and then pressing the button and then pulling up.


My personal Fix:
I almost bought a new one, because they are not expensive.  But I wanted to make my own car my own by doing something outside the norm.  So i went with Painting it.  Its up to you to modify in different ways.  You can opt to wrap it, you don't need much material and you can do a funky color if you like.  But I like Black and so I went with Black paint.

I used Rustoleum, because it bonds good to plastic.  Link at the bottom if you want to do the same.



Spray can I used: Rust-Oleum Universal Advanced Formula: Paint & Primer
Prep:
I used tape and printer paper to completely wrap the leather part of the shifter.  Then Paint away.

Let it dry in well ventilated area...





Unwrap all paper and reinstall shifter knob.

To Install simply slide in place and press down hard on it, it will snap back in.

It's not perfect, but looks ok


To see more about my E90, go to the top of the Vlog  : https://msauceda1.blogspot.com/

Good luck to you, and if you find this post helpful please let me know...

Until next time...


Amazon Links: