Showing posts with label Valve. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Valve. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 5, 2018

CCV Valve & Burning Engine Oil, Vanos INFO on BMW 330i E90 2006

CCV Valve & Burning Engine Oil,
Oil Level Issues and VANOS info:
BMW 330I E90 2006
Mobil 1   5W30

I've been putting off making this particular post because I thought maybe it was something so basic that maybe it didn't need to be said.  I will tell you which oil to use in your E90, and if your car really is burning so much oil, or not... keep reading and you will find out.  The Answer may surprise you.

Which Engine oil should you use:
5W-30 Mobil 1
Car: BMW 330i 2006 E90

I have been using Mobil 1 5W30 for years with great success.

When to check the oil:
I typically check the oil every 3 months, to top it off.  You always burn a bit of oil as you drive, more so if you CCV (crankcase ventilation valve) is ripped.  I have another post on how to check it.

NO, your car isn't burning oil like Crazy, it's actually being siphoned out, because of a broken CCV valve diaphram:
I see a lot of people posting that their car burns a lot of oil.  It doesn't burn oil it is getting getting siphoned out.  Through a bad CCV Valve, don't believe me check your CCV and if broken replace it, then note how often you have to add a significant amount of oil to the car.

Check out this post for more information:

https://msauceda1.blogspot.com/2018/04/ccv-valve-crankcase-ventilation-valve.html

YES BMW E90s will burn oil, a little, just from old age even, but not a lot.  If you have to add half a quart every month, when you drive a lot... then your CCV valve is bad.

CCV (Crankcase Ventilation Valve) Siphoning oil through the broken diaphragm:
Long story short, when broken/ripped Diaphragm (CCV Valve) it siphones oil out of Engine and into intake and burns it by sending it through the air intake manifold, through the broken CCV valve diaphragm.  The Engine loses oil like crazy this way.

The CCV valve normally sends oil fumes back into the engine, but it doesn't do that when broken.  It sends it straight into the engine intake.  YES this is very bad, if a lot of oil goes through, it can damage the engine, Catalytic converter, Oxygen sensors, and spark plugs(coated in soot).

How does this happen, well the CCV valve uses vacuum to engage, but when the diaphragm gets ripped which will happen over time, it sends the pressured air right into the intake manifold, when the engine is warm or hot, the fumes build up in the CCV Valve and as you drive the OIL fumes gets accumulated then siphoned out with pressure from the engine Vacuum, when pressure goes up.  When the CCV valve is working normal of course it doesn't do this, but when it's broken it does siphon a lot of oil out of the engine, the more you drive, if you rev the engine hard you will actually see white smoke come out of the tailpipe.

Lots of smoke when Hard acceleration, but non when you drive Normal:  During hard acceleration from a standstill you will see white smoke, well... that is oil being siphoned out of the engine...  and it does this because of the broken Crankcase ventilation valve diaphragm.  When it takes a big gulp of oil, that has been accumulating in the CCV Valve, it burns a lot of oil and smoke comes out the tailpipe, then when you drive at normal speed there is no smoke.  This is why a lot of people assume that nothing is wrong, when in fact there is.

At low speed there is not much vacuum pressure, this is why the car doesn't smoke when you drive at low speed.   When you rev the engine hard, you build up a lot of vacuum, and this is when the oil gets siphoned out.

Pictures of CCV Valve (Crankcase Ventilation Valve) Broken diaphragm

The Diaphragm is in Orange

it normally rips around, like this one, I opened my CCV to see inside, you can see the Oil build up here. 


Please note: I removed this boat from the CCV Valve

This was all the oil inside the crankcase ventilation valve, AFTER i removed it from the car, FYI it should NOT have any inside.  The oil should circulate back into the engine, when you have a good CCV (Crankcase Ventilation Valve).  Mine had a bad Diaphragm, and this was all the oil inside it.

The Crankcase Ventilation Valve is located under the intake manifold.

DON'T TRUST THE OIL LEVEL CLUSTER LEVEL:
My personal observation is that right after you add oil to the engine, is not a good time to check the oil level.  YOU HAVE TO DRIVE THE CAR FIRST.  Otherwise you will not get the true reading.

You have to turn ON the car to check the oil level, but if you wait for the oil level to change it won't happen.  Drive the car for a mile or so and then you will get the true reading, after you add oil.

 Cluster vs IDrive Oil Level difference
Now I don't see people talk about this, and maybe it's just my car, but what I've noticed is that the cluster's oil level will read a drastic difference from the Idrive level.  See picture:
IN BLUE: note that they don't read the same.  One read Full and the other below full.
Do this and let me know if you find the same results.

with the lever on the left of the steering wheel go to the Oil level and then go to the IDrive oil level and you will notice that they don't read the same.


When to replace the oil:
Every 6 months is good practice, don't trust the BMW diagnostics to tell you to change the oil, because it waits ONE year or 12 months to warm you to change the oil.  YES, the oil is supposed to be changed every year, according to BMW onboard diagnostics.  Change it every 6K miles or 6 months, that is what I do.  It's the best way to keep the car Happy.

Vanos:
Everyone should know that the intake and exhaust VANOS run better with a lot of oil.  Not Normal level, but FULL oil level.  If you have OK level and OLD oil, then vanos start to stick and the car will run rough.  This is FACT, I've proved this many times over.

Solution: You need Fresh OIL, and clean vanos a good CCV valve and your car will run GREAT.  I've made a post on the Vanos because they get overlooked so much, see the link below.






Clean both of the vanos with air compressor and they will work normal.  I see a lot of people replace the Vanos because they get stuck.  I've had a Bad or sticky vanos about 5 times, I clean then and I change the oil and my car runs normal.  I still have the same vanos, never replaced then, I've cleaned them 5 times and they work good.  Only replace the vanos, when it stops working.

Check out this post on how to clean then:

Clink this link:  Vanos cleaning plus all you wanted to know about the Vanos.

Usually Code P0012 when they get stuck.


Good luck to you, and if you find this post helpful please let me know...

until next time.




To see more about my E90, go to the top of the Vlog  : https://msauceda1.blogspot.com/




Oil Filter:



Vanos:



Crankcase Ventilation Valve: CCV Valve:

Friday, April 6, 2018

CCV Valve : Crankcase Ventilation Valve, how to test vacuum

CCV Valve ( upside down) no plastic spongy shroud
Crankcase Ventilation Valve: What is it, Point of Failure, Removal Procedure, Cost, how to test
(4 videos below)


It all started with a bad alternator the other day, everything seemed to be going okay, until I started the car and for the second time, I got a puff of smoke from the exhaust of my E90 330i 2006.  I had seen that before, but it was a bit concerning when the smoke happened for a second time, I knew more work needed to be done to my car, and so it begins....


Tip that something was wrong with the CCV Valve
Let me first start by saying that I got NO codes, everything seemed to be okay, only things I noticed that was wrong was that I got a lot of smoke out of the exhaust, on start up or Very hard Acceleration ONLY and that my car seemed to consume a lot of oil.  But as it turns out, those 2 things were the main reason why I knew that my Crankcase Ventilation Valve was malfunctioning, you see everywhere I read, I kept reading the same thing, a lot of smoke for a few seconds and a lot of consumption of oil, with normal use.  But I wanted to prove that in fact the crankcase ventilation valve was bad.  So then I started removing the intake manifold, intake body, and electrical wire harness, gas hose, etc... until 4 hours late, I finally got to the CCV Valve.


What is the CCV Valve:
From what I understand, it is used to separate the oil and fumes from the oil pan.  I don't know the exact function, I am just making an observation.  Under certain conditions it holds a vacuum with the diaphragm.  If it fails from what I read, it make the engine smoke, and it make the engine run rough.  I also read that it can make a noise when going bad, it sounds like something flapping.

How do you get to the CCV Valve:  Videos further down... 
Removed: Intake manifold, intake throttle body, power steer, power harness, disconnect the starter, fuel line, a lot of plastic hoses

The Round plastic on the top of the picture is the CCV Valve still connected to the (nightmare) hose...


Disconnect the Power Line that runs a top the engine. Disconnected in the picture above

Air intake manifold upside down in the picture above

This is what I had to remove to get to the CCV Valve:
I removed the air intake, throttle body, wire harness, cabin filter, gas fuel line, but at the end I ended up breaking one of the Plastic hoses attached to the CCV, because I could see NO way, how I could get to the hose to get enough of it to press the two tabs to release it, so I went to plan B and I tugged on it hard until it snapped in half, then voila, the CCV was free.  It took me about 4 hours to get to the CCV Valve, make no mistake it will take you a long time to replace this.  It will take you equally as long to put everything back, this is a very tough part to replace.  If you decide to tackle this job, it would be a good time to do other "maintenance" air hoses.


CCV Valve Internals / Point of Failure !  / Test of Diaphram
The CCV Valve had a diaphragm inside that was ripped, I believe the one nipple on top of the CCV valve that is not connected is used for the purpose of testing the Diaphragm, I read on he Bimmerforums somebody that asked if something should be plugged in that nipple, well I believe it's a test point.  Now I didn't read this anywhere I am just making an observation.  You see the diaphragm is sealed all the way around on the other side of that nipple, so in theory if the diaphragm is intact, then if a vacuum is applied, it should hold a vacuum, I haven't tested this, but a simple observation of the CCV will make you conclude the same thing.

Video 1 

 Video 2

CCV Valve Point of failure pictures:
Shroud for the CCV, top and bottom

Orange color Diaphragm, ripped.  I cut the top plastic with a saw...
Explained in video...


Nipple on the plastic removed in picture above can hold a vacuum to test the Orange Diaphragm plastic




Impedance of Heater of the CCV Valve, and heater hoses:
I said in the video I would tell you the impedance of the heater hoses, here they are...
Heater Hose 1 : 21.7 ohms

Bottom Heater Hose (nightmare hose) : 37.3 ohms

CCV Valve Hose Heater Impance: 28.4 ohms
 Replacement Cost: 4/6/2018

Crankcase Vent Hose - Vent Valve to Oil Return Tube   Brand: JL Note: (2006 BMW 330i Base Sedan)
  Part #: 11-15-7-567-801-M352
$41.75
1
$41.75
Crankcase Vent Hose - Vent Valve to Intake Manifold   Brand: Rein Automotive Note: thru 09/05 (2006 BMW 330i Base Sedan)
  Part #: 11-61-7-522-933-M203
$15.75
1
$15.75
Crankcase Vent Hose - Vent Valve to Intake Manifold   Brand: Rein Automotive O.E.M. Note: from 10/05 (2006 BMW 330i Base Sedan)
  Part #: 11-61-7-559-530-M963
$36.25
1
$36.25
Crankcase Vent Valve (Pressure Regulating Valve)   Brand: Genuine BMW Note: (2006 BMW 330i Base Sedan)
  Part #: 11-61-7-531-423-M9
$100.50
1
$100.50
I got my replacement Parts from Pelican:

Website: Pelican Website  

I am not affiliated with Pelican, I just like their website, it too has a how to, to remove the CVV valve, that helped me, so I wanted to give them credit.

Side Note:
When I removed the intake manifold, there was a LOT of oil inside the manifold, excessive I would say.  I believe it's because the oil didn't go the back to the oil pan, it simply got stuck where it landed, inside the intake manifold, I was very surprised when I left the Intake in the sun and when I came back to move it, oil poured out.




How to test the CCV Valve: (New vs Old)
Video 3

Video 4
CCV FYI (new only)

Something interesting that happened after I replaced the CCV  Valve :




I hope this was helpful to you.
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