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| CCV Valve ( upside down) no plastic spongy shroud |
(4 videos below)
It all started with a bad alternator the other day, everything seemed to be going okay, until I started the car and for the second time, I got a puff of smoke from the exhaust of my E90 330i 2006. I had seen that before, but it was a bit concerning when the smoke happened for a second time, I knew more work needed to be done to my car, and so it begins....
Tip that something was wrong with the CCV Valve
Let me first start by saying that I got NO codes, everything seemed to be okay, only things I noticed that was wrong was that I got a lot of smoke out of the exhaust, on start up or Very hard Acceleration ONLY and that my car seemed to consume a lot of oil. But as it turns out, those 2 things were the main reason why I knew that my Crankcase Ventilation Valve was malfunctioning, you see everywhere I read, I kept reading the same thing, a lot of smoke for a few seconds and a lot of consumption of oil, with normal use. But I wanted to prove that in fact the crankcase ventilation valve was bad. So then I started removing the intake manifold, intake body, and electrical wire harness, gas hose, etc... until 4 hours late, I finally got to the CCV Valve.
What is the CCV Valve:
From what I understand, it is used to separate the oil and fumes from the oil pan. I don't know the exact function, I am just making an observation. Under certain conditions it holds a vacuum with the diaphragm. If it fails from what I read, it make the engine smoke, and it make the engine run rough. I also read that it can make a noise when going bad, it sounds like something flapping.
How do you get to the CCV Valve: Videos further down...
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| Removed: Intake manifold, intake throttle body, power steer, power harness, disconnect the starter, fuel line, a lot of plastic hoses The Round plastic on the top of the picture is the CCV Valve still connected to the (nightmare) hose... |
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| Disconnect the Power Line that runs a top the engine. Disconnected in the picture above |
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| Air intake manifold upside down in the picture above |
This is what I had to remove to get to the CCV Valve:
I removed the air intake, throttle body, wire harness, cabin filter, gas fuel line, but at the end I ended up breaking one of the Plastic hoses attached to the CCV, because I could see NO way, how I could get to the hose to get enough of it to press the two tabs to release it, so I went to plan B and I tugged on it hard until it snapped in half, then voila, the CCV was free. It took me about 4 hours to get to the CCV Valve, make no mistake it will take you a long time to replace this. It will take you equally as long to put everything back, this is a very tough part to replace. If you decide to tackle this job, it would be a good time to do other "maintenance" air hoses.
CCV Valve Internals / Point of Failure ! / Test of Diaphram
The CCV Valve had a diaphragm inside that was ripped, I believe the one nipple on top of the CCV valve that is not connected is used for the purpose of testing the Diaphragm, I read on he Bimmerforums somebody that asked if something should be plugged in that nipple, well I believe it's a test point. Now I didn't read this anywhere I am just making an observation. You see the diaphragm is sealed all the way around on the other side of that nipple, so in theory if the diaphragm is intact, then if a vacuum is applied, it should hold a vacuum, I haven't tested this, but a simple observation of the CCV will make you conclude the same thing.
Video 1
Video 2
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| Shroud for the CCV, top and bottom |
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| Orange color Diaphragm, ripped. I cut the top plastic with a saw... Explained in video... |
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| Nipple on the plastic removed in picture above can hold a vacuum to test the Orange Diaphragm plastic |
Impedance of Heater of the CCV Valve, and heater hoses:
I said in the video I would tell you the impedance of the heater hoses, here they are...
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| Heater Hose 1 : 21.7 ohms |
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| Bottom Heater Hose (nightmare hose) : 37.3 ohms |
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| CCV Valve Hose Heater Impance: 28.4 ohms |
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I got my replacement Parts from Pelican:
Website: Pelican Website
Side Note:
When I removed the intake manifold, there was a LOT of oil inside the manifold, excessive I would say. I believe it's because the oil didn't go the back to the oil pan, it simply got stuck where it landed, inside the intake manifold, I was very surprised when I left the Intake in the sun and when I came back to move it, oil poured out.
How to test the CCV Valve: (New vs Old)
Video 3
Video 3
Video 4
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| CCV FYI (new only) |
Something interesting that happened after I replaced the CCV Valve :
I hope this was helpful to you.
Great! Many thanks!
ReplyDeleteI am currently having the same problem with the ccv and by the way, my oil levelling sensor is INACTIVE as informed when I try to get the read.
Do you know if there is any relation?