How to replace Windshield wipers, BMW 330i 2006 E90

Windshield Wiper Replacement

BMW 330i 2006 E90

It's that time of the year when the blades of my E90 have started to look worn out.  But no big deal it's actually VERY easy to replace,

These are the procedures follow the steps 1 through 4 below.

One Blade is longer than the other, one is 24 Inches and other is 19 Inches.

The Driver side is longer

Step 1:

Pull on the plastic cover like this: up and away

It pops out, don't be afraid of it, then put it off to the side

Note: if you don't have the cover, see a link at the bottom for a replacement from Amazon, if it's loose it can go flying off...

Step 2:

Then pull the wiper up and away from Windshield

Step 3:

Then twist half turn, counter clockwise, the whole wiper blade, the entire wiper blade should moves very easy, it's not attached or anything it should freely move,...  like you need to flip the wiper blade upside down.

It should look like this: picture below

Step 4:

Then slide out.

Then finally put the new ones back on.  Then do reverse procedure.

Don't forget the plastic cover, make sure it snaps back into place.  If it's lose it will go flying off!

I use Bosch brand they are a bit more expensive but worth it.  They usually last me a few years.

I typically get them at Autozone, ask them for help.  They should be able to help.

Just tell them you need Wiper Blades for BMW 330i 2006, Bosch brand.  They are going to figure out which lengths you need and you just go and get them.  They usually have different lengths.

Good luck to you, and if you find this post helpful please let me know...

until next time.

To see more about my E90, go to the top of the Vlog  : https://msauceda1.blogspot.com/

Link to Amazon wiper blade:

CCV Valve & Burning Engine Oil, Vanos INFO on BMW 330i E90 2006

CCV Valve & Burning Engine Oil,
Oil Level Issues and VANOS info:
BMW 330I E90 2006

Mobil 1   5W30

I've been putting off making this particular post because I thought maybe it was something so basic that maybe it didn't need to be said.  I will tell you which oil to use in your E90, and if your car really is burning so much oil, or not... keep reading and you will find out.  The Answer may surprise you.

Which Engine oil should you use:

5W-30 Mobil 1

Car: BMW 330i 2006 E90

I have been using Mobil 1 5W30 for years with great success.

When to check the oil:
I typically check the oil every 3 months, to top it off.  You always burn a bit of oil as you drive, more so if you CCV (crankcase ventilation valve) is ripped.  I have another post on how to check it.

NO, your car isn't burning oil like Crazy, it's actually being siphoned out, because of a broken CCV valve diaphram:
I see a lot of people posting that their car burns a lot of oil.  It doesn't burn oil it is getting getting siphoned out.  Through a bad CCV Valve, don't believe me check your CCV and if broken replace it, then note how often you have to add a significant amount of oil to the car.

Check out this post for more information:

https://msauceda1.blogspot.com/2018/04/ccv-valve-crankcase-ventilation-valve.html

YES BMW E90s will burn oil, a little, just from old age even, but not a lot.  If you have to add half a quart every month, when you drive a lot... then your CCV valve is bad.

CCV (Crankcase Ventilation Valve) Siphoning oil through the broken diaphragm:
Long story short, when broken/ripped Diaphragm (CCV Valve) it siphones oil out of Engine and into intake and burns it by sending it through the air intake manifold, through the broken CCV valve diaphragm.  The Engine loses oil like crazy this way.

The CCV valve normally sends oil fumes back into the engine, but it doesn't do that when broken.  It sends it straight into the engine intake.  YES this is very bad, if a lot of oil goes through, it can damage the engine, Catalytic converter, Oxygen sensors, and spark plugs(coated in soot).

How does this happen, well the CCV valve uses vacuum to engage, but when the diaphragm gets ripped which will happen over time, it sends the pressured air right into the intake manifold, when the engine is warm or hot, the fumes build up in the CCV Valve and as you drive the OIL fumes gets accumulated then siphoned out with pressure from the engine Vacuum, when pressure goes up.  When the CCV valve is working normal of course it doesn't do this, but when it's broken it does siphon a lot of oil out of the engine, the more you drive, if you rev the engine hard you will actually see white smoke come out of the tailpipe.

Lots of smoke when Hard acceleration, but non when you drive Normal:  During hard acceleration from a standstill you will see white smoke, well... that is oil being siphoned out of the engine...  and it does this because of the broken Crankcase ventilation valve diaphragm.  When it takes a big gulp of oil, that has been accumulating in the CCV Valve, it burns a lot of oil and smoke comes out the tailpipe, then when you drive at normal speed there is no smoke.  This is why a lot of people assume that nothing is wrong, when in fact there is.

At low speed there is not much vacuum pressure, this is why the car doesn't smoke when you drive at low speed.   When you rev the engine hard, you build up a lot of vacuum, and this is when the oil gets siphoned out.

Pictures of CCV Valve (Crankcase Ventilation Valve) Broken diaphragm

The Diaphragm is in Orange

it normally rips around, like this one, I opened my CCV to see inside, you can see the Oil build up here. 

Please note: I removed this boat from the CCV Valve

This was all the oil inside the crankcase ventilation valve, AFTER i removed it from the car, FYI it should NOT have any inside.  The oil should circulate back into the engine, when you have a good CCV (Crankcase Ventilation Valve).  Mine had a bad Diaphragm, and this was all the oil inside it.

The Crankcase Ventilation Valve is located under the intake manifold.

DON'T TRUST THE OIL LEVEL CLUSTER LEVEL:

My personal observation is that right after you add oil to the engine, is not a good time to check the oil level.  YOU HAVE TO DRIVE THE CAR FIRST.  Otherwise you will not get the true reading.

You have to turn ON the car to check the oil level, but if you wait for the oil level to change it won't happen.  Drive the car for a mile or so and then you will get the true reading, after you add oil.

 Cluster vs IDrive Oil Level difference

Now I don't see people talk about this, and maybe it's just my car, but what I've noticed is that the cluster's oil level will read a drastic difference from the Idrive level.  See picture:

IN BLUE: note that they don't read the same.  One read Full and the other below full.

Do this and let me know if you find the same results.

with the lever on the left of the steering wheel go to the Oil level and then go to the IDrive oil level and you will notice that they don't read the same.


When to replace the oil:
Every 6 months is good practice, don't trust the BMW diagnostics to tell you to change the oil, because it waits ONE year or 12 months to warm you to change the oil.  YES, the oil is supposed to be changed every year, according to BMW onboard diagnostics.  Change it every 6K miles or 6 months, that is what I do.  It's the best way to keep the car Happy.

Vanos:
Everyone should know that the intake and exhaust VANOS run better with a lot of oil.  Not Normal level, but FULL oil level.  If you have OK level and OLD oil, then vanos start to stick and the car will run rough.  This is FACT, I've proved this many times over.

Solution: You need Fresh OIL, and clean vanos a good CCV valve and your car will run GREAT.  I've made a post on the Vanos because they get overlooked so much, see the link below.

Clean both of the vanos with air compressor and they will work normal.  I see a lot of people replace the Vanos because they get stuck.  I've had a Bad or sticky vanos about 5 times, I clean then and I change the oil and my car runs normal.  I still have the same vanos, never replaced then, I've cleaned them 5 times and they work good.  Only replace the vanos, when it stops working.

Check out this post on how to clean then:

Clink this link:  Vanos cleaning plus all you wanted to know about the Vanos.

Usually Code P0012 when they get stuck.


Good luck to you, and if you find this post helpful please let me know...

until next time.

To see more about my E90, go to the top of the Vlog  : https://msauceda1.blogspot.com/

Oil Filter:

Vanos:

Crankcase Ventilation Valve: CCV Valve:

Passenger side Door Handle melting, Plus BMW quality rant...

Passenger Door Handle Melting
BMW e90, 330i, 2006

I can't be the only one that is experiencing the passenger side handle melting.  It started a while back, but honestly I didn't pay attention to it because I don't really use that handle, but as the years went by I saw that it was getting worse.

How bad is it...

What is happening:
It looks like there is "Malleable plastic" molded to the shape of the handle.  This plastic started to degrade, not sure if it's due to the heat or other chemicals.  It's very sticky and difficult to remove if you get it on your cloths.  I pinched it with my fingernails to see how malleable it was and it got stuck in my fingernails.  I've seen a few videos now on Youtube, and they are experiencing the same.  Passenger side.  It's not very difficult to replace, but it makes you wonder why BMW chose this material to make one of the most used parts in the car with material that could degrade to this point.

BMW Quality?
I've posted before about what I think about BMW quality.  Starting with the most visible part of the car which is the emblem on the hood and the truck and the wheels.  Don't get me started on the engine valve cover bolts, they snap off... if you didn't know.  I have a post about that.

Other issues are the hoses that are made of thin plastic, inside the engine bay they get hot, and they harden, then they can cause a leak or break.  They are not meant to last.  Of course very expensive and if you replace one, you have to replace the set.

The most recent are the airbags and Blower motor replacement that could cause a fire, or the airbags from Takata that could kill the passenger when deployed.  Very Dangerous.

I know most automotive companies have some issues like this and I have to say for the most part, now that i've been doing the work myself, I've been having less issues with my car.  But to put it into perspective here is a list of the things I've had to do to my car to get it running good.

List of issues with my car, replaced:

Windows regulator(s)
Valve cover bolts
Thin plastic hoses
Heater elements
spark plug coils
Navigation system
Air vent plastic
Ac compressor
Alternator
Hood and truck Emblems
speakers (falling apart)
Valve cover gasket (excessive oil leak)
CCV valve (crankcase ventilation Valve)
VANOS
Oil reservoir gasket
Washer fluid reservoir

Regularly serviceable items:
Transmission fluid
AC refill

 Just off the top of my head...

Soon to be added: Door Handle


Replacement:
I will order a replacement and I will add to this post when I finish it. Links below...

Important: There are 2 parts to the door handle, the inner handle and the outer cover.  I will include both links on the bottom of the article...

My temporary fix:

I used a rag and I tried to wipe off all of the malleable plastic and it exposed a hard plastic below it.  I will use it like this until I get a replacement handle.

More pictures of melted plastic:

After I cleaned off the plastic, exposing a more sturdy plastic below the sticky one.

Let me know if you are experiencing the same.  Chances are if you are seeing this post you are.

If you don't replace it, it's only going to get worse...

To see more about my E90, go to the top of the Vlog  : https://msauceda1.blogspot.com/

Outer cover:

Inner handle:

Angel Eye Upgrade "Halo lights" and Headlight Bulb replacement

Angel Eye Halo Light upgrade 7000K 6W, and Headlight Bulb replacement Xenon 6000K 35W HID:

BMW E90 300i 2006

Well it happened, Two of my Halo lights finally went out, it was the very first time since I upgraded to the new 7K LED.   I didn't write much about when I upgraded, but this time I wanted to show you what they look like and I want to tell you why I upgraded.

Why Upgrade to LED

To start the LED 7K Halo lights don't last any longer than the regular Bulb lights that come with the car, when I replaced the original bulbs they were $70 dollars for 1 bulb back in 2008 or so....  The New LED lights are not any brighter, but Because they are 7K they don't look "Brown" color, these actually look more "White" which is what the newer BMW Halo lights have, so it upgrades the car look by replacing the Bulb to LED 7K

Cost of LED Halo 7K lights aka Angel Eyes

Cost fluxuates, but usually it's around $25.00 dollars, now these LEDs come in pairs, if you have Amazon Prime you don't pay for shipping, the current prices should be on the Amazon link below.

Here is a link if you are interested in getting them:

Halo light 7K White color LED 

Procedure to remove old LED light

IMPORTANT:  To replace you DON'T have to remove the tire like most Youtube video say.  But you do have to lift the car up to give you clearance.  The car is very low to the ground and when you lift it you gain the extra few inches needed for clearance to remove the screws.

Remove this to gain access to the Bulb area, only way to replace the bulb...

Remove the cover, it's about 6 screws and then it comes out, and you will have plenty of clearance to remove the bulb

You need to lift the car to get the access

Plenty of clearance to remove bulb
No need to remove the tire...

LED light

You have to remove 2 screws Torx 15 one per side

Must remove to get access to Light 

you can change all the bulbs by doing this, "blinker, main headlight, halo"

Why they went out...

I had a bad Alternator and for some strange reason the two Halo lights went out a couple of days apart,  just before the alternator completely stopped working, I took apart the LED lights to see what was bad, and for sure it looks like the 2 LED that are in the heatsink housing went out, it's a very simple pcb board to troubleshoot, I think the LEDs where probably dropping below voltage or spiked and it damaged them, the alternator was intermittent so it was hard to tell, but common sense tells me that is what happened.

 Damaged LEDs, I think they are in series so it makes sense that both would go out at the same time, picture above.

But at the end it's easier than most other things I've done to the car, and I am happy they are working again, because it's the Halo lights that give the car an extra distinctive look.

------

Now the other lights...

Main Headlight Bulb Xenon Ballast HID

If you are interested in replacing the Headlight "the regular headlights not the Halo, this is what they look like:

How to get to them:You have access from inside the engine, but better access from under the wheel well, I had taken the wheel well plastic off already, so I decided to take them out.  Here are a few pictures.

Amazon link at end of article...

Original Xenon HID that came with the car

I took one out to see how it looked because for some reason it kept turning OFF randomly, and I believe that it was not bulb and not a loose cable, and this only confirmed it, because the bulb looked like this:

This fog inside the Bulb is not normal, I will replace it soon, It powers ON but is intermittent

I have to say this took longer than I anticipated, not because it's hard, it's just a lot tidiuse work to remove screws in odd places, but well worth it... it's about 45 minutes per bulb... max...

Until next time....


Main Headlight Bulb Xenon HID Replacement (Pair) Diamond White color

Halo LED replacement:

Resetting Service Requirement: Oil, How to reset the change oil warning

Resetting Service Requirement: Oil
How to reset the change oil warning

It's happened to all of us, we finish replacing the oil in our car and you are ready to move one, but then you remember you have to reset the computer in the car to tell it that it now has fresh oil.

This is the procedure:

-Close all doors. Switch Ignition ON

-Make sure lower display in cluster show clock and mileage.

-Press and hold trip odometer reset button for about 5 seconds until CBS icon begin to display in cluster.   Release button.

-Press turn signal lever BC button (arrow) repeatedly to scroll through CBS icons.  Find the oil symbol.

-For each icon the word RESET? is displayed. To reset a particular item, press and hold BC button.  A small analog clock icon is displayed.  When complete, then chosen CBS item is reset.

-To insure that the reset was done, press BC button while looking at CBS reset icon.  Acknowledgment of reset is shown with a check mark in a box.

Engine oil Capacity: 6.5 liters (6.9 US qt)
Keep in mind you never remove all the oil from your engine when change the oil.  The engine will always retain a bit of oil inside.  Warm up the engine before you remove the drain plug, this will help the oil come out.  The oil is more liquid when it's warm.

I use: Mobil 1  5W30

How to add oil:

The way I do it is, I add 4 to 5 quarts and then turn the car on, and 
I check how much oil the car has, then I add more as needed.  You will need to wait about 5 minutes for the car to read the oil level.  I never add 6.5 quarts to my car.

Tip:  When you check the oil level the very first time after changing the oil, and you turn your car off....  and you add more OIL....  Don't trust the level of the oil when you turn the car ON again.  you will need to drive it a bit for the "real" level to appear.  In my experience the level doesn't settle until you drive the car a bit.  Sometimes I think it's full but it's still not "full", until I check it a third time, after I drove the car. 

Happy Vanos... Happy Car

Vanos

The E90 330i 2006 prefers for the oil to be at MAX level.  Why?  Because the Vanos require a ton of oil to function properly.  If the Vanos are happy your car will run better.  Just my personal experience.   I made an article about cleaning the vanos, I will include a link below, it has A TON of info on VANOS:

https://msauceda1.blogspot.com/2014/10/vanos-service-with-instructions.html


The car will tell you when it's time to replace the oil
The CBS system recognizes when a service is required.  The Oil change interval is determined by engine oil condition sensor (OZS) monitoring oil condition, oil level, and oil temperature; and from additional algorithms using these parameters: Engine load, fuel consumption, time and distance since the last oil change.

Definition:
CBS: Condition Based Service (CBS)
OZS: Oil condition Sensor
Vanos: Variable camshaft timing solenoid

Oil Filter:

Always replace the oil filter at the same time you replace the oil.  Note that the Oil filter "KIT" comes with two "O" rings, one is big and it goes around the Oil housing, and the other is a small one.  The kit also comes with 1 crush washer, you have to replace these too.

Intervals between oil change:

I don't wait the "15K miles or 1 year" BMW oil change interval indicated in the car.  MAX i go 6 months, usually 5 months.  To be honest some time I do go close 15K miles, but then I have to add oil to my car, and then I get problems with the Vanos, and then I have to take out the vanos to clean them.  I have another blog where I show how to do this, link above.  Just change the oil every 5K miles, your car will reward you for it... 

To remove oil filter cap

Oil filter Cap removal tool

You will need one of these to remove the oil cap.  I have no affiliation with these
Amazon link at end of article...

NO Dipstick

I know... It's sad.  But this car doesn't have a tradition dipstick, to check the oil, you have to go inside the car and check oil level in the cluster.  The car has a sensor that tells it how much oil is the car.

BMW E90 330i 2006 

I hope you found this information useful,

See more, to go the main page: Blog Main Page

If you found the information helpful consider donating:

https://www.paypal.me/MSauceda1

Oil filter cap removal tool:

E90 Oil filter kit

P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor "A", Bank 1

P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Range/ Performance (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)

BMW E90, 330i 2006

So I got up this morning and turned on my car, and my car took about 5 full seconds to turn on, the starter kept going until finally the car started, unfortunately it started very rough, now in it's defense I did drive it hard about 3 days ago and I parked it, so it was the first time since then that I started it.

But the car barely started, and then it was sputtering, barely staying on.  So I decided to check for codes and I got P0341.  Now I've replaced the sensor before about 5 years ago, so I figured well maybe they only last 5 years.... But it was NOT the sensor that was bad let me explain...

Symptoms:
Rough Idle, P0341 code, Low Oil, and recently replaced oil and "dirty Vanos".

This is what I did to fix it:

First: Cleaned both Intake and Exhaust Vanos:

This is how to clean the Vanos

Both Vanos, Intake and Exhaust.
Remove with 10mm socket and they pop out.  
Camshaft Sensor is on the right of the solenoids

To give you more room to remove the Vanos, remove the snorkel in top of the Radiator

VANOS: Both look the same, they are in fact exactly the same

Second: Added oil (1 Quart) 

Oil is Mobil 1: 5W30, this is 5 quarts, only add 1 quart, that will do it.

About the Oil Level...

PICTURE 1   :   Oil level is 2 blocks or Min.

PICTURE 2   :  Oil Level reads just above minimum, but still says OK on the display

Low oil check, with On Board Diagnostics, now note they both say OK, Picture 1 and Pictures 2... but in fact it's low, the E90's don't like it when you have the minimum oil level, it just runs better full, the Vanos are happier with MAX oil level, not OK level.  It has been my experience that the vanos stick when they have OK oil level, if they have MAX oil level they run better.

This is what you want to see.  All green bars full to the top

Third: Then drove it for 5 minutes, then code disappeared.

Why would this happen:

This is something I've noticed on my car, I am not sure if it happens to other people but I've noticed that if I don't replace the oil regularly and then I replace it,  YES, AFTER I replace the oil...  soon after I have sticking "VANOS" Solenoids, not sure why, but it has happened lots of times now, and I remember that each time I went 15K before replacing the oil... Now don't chew me out for not replacing the oil sooner, I know I should replace it ever 5K at least, but sometimes it's just not possible, I've had my car for a long time, and I know all the symptoms and quirks, like Doug De Mouro says...

I know the clearance on the Vanos is very tight, a very small amount of "paper" or "plastic" or "dirt" will bind the solenoid and it won't move, which is why you get the code for bad solenoid, technically it's correct, in that the vanos is stuck, but it just needs to be cleaned.  I have a few articles on how to clean the Vanos, I'll include a link:

https://msauceda1.blogspot.com/2014/10/vanos-service-with-instructions.html

If you must replace the sensor:  .... do this

If this doesn't fix your car, then you probably do have a bad sensor, this is where it's located:

Sensor on the right:  Camshaft Position Sensor "A", Bank 1 "intake"

It's very easy to replace, and you can get it here from Pelicanparts.com:
E90 Camshaft Position Sensor "A", Bank 1, Website link

www.pelicanparts.com  Picture of Sensor Camshaft Position sensor, bank 1

I am not affiliated with Pelicanparts.com, but they always have what I need, and they alway have useful pictures with good detail on how to repair my car, I always use them...

E90 2006 330i  with: 220K  so far...

I hope you found this information useful,

See more, to go the main page: Blog Main Page

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